Neo-dandy : wearability, design innovation and the formal white dress shirt for men

Brough, Dean McGregor (2008) Neo-dandy : wearability, design innovation and the formal white dress shirt for men. Masters by Research thesis, Queensland University of Technology.


This practice-led research creates innovative menswear designs for formal white dress shirts, within boundaries of contemporary mainstream wearability. As a result of an historical analysis, a conceptual spectrum is developed to scope the possibilities of the contemporary white dress shirt, from the orthodox menswear shirt to the many variations of the women’s blouse. Within this spectrum for the white shirt, the possibilities for innovation are discussed in terms of a threshold position between the shirt and the blouse - a position that parallels that of the dandy figure who subversively confronts dress norms of the day. This position is then explored in relation to an acceptable/ ‘wearable’ aesthetic which I have labelled ‘Neo-Dandy’. White shirts from contemporary menswear designers are then examined relative to this aesthetic. In doing so, this examination highlights the white dress shirt as a garment that is ripe for experimentation. My own creative design process is then described as taking up the challenge of Neo-Dandy design innovation for the contemporary white dress shirt. On this archetypal garment, different styles and varying degrees of detailing were tested. A range of ‘concept shirts’ were produced, tested and documented, with each shirt succeeding to various degrees in achieving a Neo-Dandy aesthetic. Based on this range, a list of design principles for achieving this aesthetic are identified. The weighting is 60% for the design objects (a collection of men’s white dress shirts that explore wearability and design innovation within a Neo-Dandy aesthetic) and 40% for the design discussion (exegesis and supporting appendices).

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ID Code: 18355
Item Type: QUT Thesis (Masters by Research)
Supervisor: Jaaniste, Luke & Vaughan, Suzi
Keywords: fashion, design, menswear, dress shirt, white shirt, blouse, wearability, practiceled research, innovation, Neo-Dandy, dandy, gendered object
Divisions: Current > QUT Faculties and Divisions > Creative Industries Faculty
Institution: Queensland University of Technology
Deposited On: 26 Feb 2009 05:00
Last Modified: 21 Jun 2017 14:41

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