Climbing skill and complexity of climbing wall design: Assessment of jerk as a novel indicator of performance fluency

Seifert, Ludovic, Orth, Dominic, Boulanger, Jeremie, Dovgalecs, Vladislavs, Herault, Romain, & Davids, Keith (2014) Climbing skill and complexity of climbing wall design: Assessment of jerk as a novel indicator of performance fluency. Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 30(5), pp. 619-625.

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This study investigated a new performance indicator to assess climbing fluency (smoothness of the hip trajectory and orientation of a climber using normalized jerk coefficients) to explore effects of practice and hold design on performance. Eight experienced climbers completed four repetitions of two, 10-m high routes with similar difficulty levels, but varying in hold graspability (holds with one edge vs holds with two edges). An inertial measurement unit was attached to the hips of each climber to collect 3D acceleration and 3D orientation data to compute jerk coefficients. Results showed high correlations (r = .99, P < .05) between the normalized jerk coefficient of hip trajectory and orientation. Results showed higher normalized jerk coefficients for the route with two graspable edges, perhaps due to more complex route finding and action regulation behaviors. This effect decreased with practice. Jerk coefficient of hip trajectory and orientation could be a useful indicator of climbing fluency for coaches as its computation takes into account both spatial and temporal parameters (ie, changes in both climbing trajectory and time to travel this trajectory)

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6 citations in Scopus
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5 citations in Web of Science®

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ID Code: 88509
Item Type: Journal Article
Refereed: Yes
Keywords: movement jerk, limbing fluency, old design, nertial measurement unit
DOI: 10.1123/jab.2014-0052
ISSN: 1065-8483
Divisions: Current > Research Centres > Centre for Health Research
Current > QUT Faculties and Divisions > Faculty of Health
Copyright Owner: © 2014 Human Kinetics, Inc
Deposited On: 12 Nov 2015 05:17
Last Modified: 12 Nov 2015 05:17

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